A trip is not just seeing places, learning about historical facts and the lives of great men and women, I would say that this is tourism. For me, travel is openness to the “new” other, showing myself as I am, with my weaknesses, telling about myself, exposing myself, without fear of being judged, since judgment is a problem of the other, not mine, as I have learned that I am one mirror for the other! In me she will see her faults and his strengths.
Photo 2: Each hill with its farmhouse on top and the inevitable cypresses
This necessary premise is due to the welcome I received at Castello S. Fabiano, people who allowed me to complete the word travel, what I seek in travelling, to know the other. It can also be done at home, one might say, but I wouldn’t have had a castle as a background, you mean? The humanity of Countess Fiorentini, who sensed my fragility, placed in my hands a precious gift for the soul, which made my heart swell with emotion. And the body you say? She pampered that too with a breakfast beyond the reach of the best hotels. Jams made by her, daily ricotta from the Sardinian farmer, homemade cakes and I don’t know how many other delights, all with an elegance that makes you feel noble for a day, an experience to try, on tiptoe of course. Speaking of feet, remind me to buy new boots with straps and not laces, I won’t explain why, remind me! I leave the castle not before handing the Countess my memo for the my novel Diomira, I’m sowing, alone in fertile ground.
Photo 3: Buonconvento Photo 4: Near Torrenieri - San Quirico d’Orcia Photo 5: Near Torrenieri - San Quirico d’Orcia
Serene journey, I have already booked a room for the night in a farmhouse near Acquapendente and bought some sandwiches in an attempt not to waste time at the restaurant and try to avoid the daily storm, so far I have always succeeded or at least I have found immediate shelter . Furthermore, today there are very few villages and they are all set back from the main road. I follow the Via Cassia with incredible views of the Crete Senesi, farmhouses on top of the hills, with the inevitable avenue of cypresses. One always wonders who could be the owner, who benefits from so much beauty, and even if it can actually give them joy, because the problem is always that, what is it and where does joy come from? I follow the old Cassia, as recommended, which goes up and down the Tuscan hills continuously, but lengthens my route by 10 km. In San Quirico I have the improvident idea of taking the Francigena in an attempt to return to the new Cassia which it ran alongside. Traveling it is one thing, climbing over the forest to reach the road is another. I trudge along the gravel for kilometers until I reach San Quirico. I find a gentleman and ask for directions. The road is there, the gentleman gives me the necessary advice for heavy traffic and reassures me: “Everything is flat from now on!”.
Photo 6: near Torrenieri San Quirico d’Orcia Photo 7: near Torrenieri San Quirico d’Orcia
Obviously not a cyclist! From the car, if you don’t make the hairpin bends you don’t notice it, you press your beautiful pedal and the road is flat. Maremma him and his plain!! I stop to eat sandwiches. I take a little too much, they’re hard to chew so I don’t eat the last one. The first thunder is heard, I check the radar forecast, the storm is certain, I have to hurry, there are 30 km to go. The road is always uphill, it is flat, but sloping. I have to stop several times to photograph the beauty of the hills. They are covered with patches of gorse bushes mixed with thickets of hybrid clover with fantastic red flowers.
Photo 8: Spots of color formed by broom and hybrid clover on the Cassia near Bagni San Filippo Photo 9: Spots of color formed by broom and hybrid clover on the Cassia near Bagni San Filippo Photo 10:Spots of color formed by broom and hybrid clover on the Cassia near Bagni San Filippo
I arrive at a tunnel, turn on the rear red light and the descent also begins at the entrance. There are several kilometers that are alone in the middle of nature, with little indication of human presence. Traffic is also a bit limited, I thought I’d have more problems. The descent is nice and fast, I cover the kilometres, I’m happy because the sun has accompanied me and I seem to be heading towards the blue. They are now just a few kilometers from the Il Paglia farmhouse. But all for a moment, with the sun, the wind brings the first drops, but I’m 2 km from the goal. A tremendous flood that erases all my ambition and bravado to achieve the goal anyway. I’m soaked despite two layers of rainproof and windproof. I take cover under a low tree and try to get into the foliage, I know it doesn’t make sense, but it was impossible to do otherwise. I feel the water everywhere, my feet are clicking, I will find goldfish inside!
Photo 11: Agriturismo Il Paglia, among cats, ponies and snails Photo 12: Agriturismo Il Paglia, among cats, ponies and snails
As soon as the rain starts to decrease I start going again, I have to reach my destination as soon as possible, I can’t stand still and I suffer from the cold, even if it looks like hail I go ahead and arrive at the Paglia farmhouse, near Acquapendente, there it seems to have done just a few drops, the tables are dry. I hang everything up to dry, even my passport, I think it should be thrown away, like the Diomira steering wheels that I had had printed, now they look like fractal works of art. Again welcome, hospitality, understanding of the situation and needs of the guest, thank you. The owner takes me to the village and then he will take me back to the farmhouse after dinner, if this isn’t courtesy!! And it goes way beyond the price paid! Today 73 km and so much wonder!
Photo 13: Acquapendente
The film of the ninth stage
