Who thinks of the Netherlands thinks: Amsterdam. Like when one thinks of France, one thinks ‘Paris’, and when one thinks of Germany one thinks ‘Berlin’. But the Netherlands have a lot more to offer than only Amsterdam. Come along, and I’ll show you!
This time I will take you on a walk along a part of the New Dutch Waterline, more precisely the part between Houten-Castellum and Culemborg. Both Houten, in the outskirts of Utrecht, and Culemborg lie in the area of the Roman Limes, the northern border of what was once the Roman Empire. During excavations in Houten - Castellum, for example, the remains of Roman residential areas were found. Veterans of the Roman army had their villas and farms here in the countryside. They must have regularly rebuilt them elsewhere, because the area between the rivers Kromme Rijn and Lek has been flooded several times in the course of time.
This district of Houten has a Roman character. The street names have Roman prefixes such as Porta, Via, Fossa and Cella. Also, the layout of this district Houten-Castellum is built in a square form and is surrounded by a ‘castle moat’.
South of Houten-Castellum is an area called ‘The Drowned Forest’. At the beginning of the last century, this woodland was put into use as a water storage area. In times of heavy precipitation, the water is collected here. The trees in the area proved unable to withstand the high water levels and died. A boardwalk for walkers runs through the area. It is a special experience to walk on it, with the dead, ‘drowned’ trees sticking up out of the water on either side.
A little further on, you come across one of the inundation canals of the Nieuwe Hollandse Waterlinie. By flooding an approximately 5 km wide strip of land (between Muiden and the Biesbosch) some 40 cm, the enemy could not reach the area behind (the wealthy west). Fortresses were built at strategic points of the line and can still be found there today. This water line, built between 1815 and 1940, was 85 kilometres long and included 50 forts and 5 defence towns. The line was never used, it was mainly preventive in nature.
South of the Drowned Forest, closer to the river Lek, is Werk aan de Korte Uitweg fort. This fort, surrounded by a moat, consists of a shellproof barracks, an engineer depot, a fort watchman’s house and a depot (ammunition dump). The former guardroom, where the men used to keep watch, is now a teahouse.
Earthen walls also run through the area. Behind them, the soldiers could move between the various forts without being seen by the enemy.
A little further south, by the river, is Fort Honswijk. This imposing fort was built between 1841 and 1847, also as part of the New Dutch Waterline. The function of Fort Honswijk was to prevent the enemy from crossing the Lekdijk and, in cooperation with Fort Everdingen on the other side of the river, to seal off the Lek. Because the historical sightlines have been restored, the fortress and the surrounding buildings are clearly visible from the route. From the shellproof artillery tower, the troops had a good view of the river and the floodplains, so they could see the enemy coming. Between 1935 and 1938, the fortress served as an internment camp for political German refugees. After World War II, NSB members, Dutch SS members and the infamous ‘Three of Breda’ (German war criminals from WWII) were imprisoned there. At the end of 2016, the fort was transferred to the municipality of Houten. The fort can be visited.
From Fort Honswijk you walk through the beautiful forelands of the river Lek, under the railway bridge, until you reach the ferry by which you can cross over to the historic town of Culemborg.
In the Middle Ages, Culemborg was a trading village. It grew into a fortified settlement, received city rights in 1318, and subsequently the city was walled and had a city moat. In the town, you will find many historical monuments such as the fish market, the town hall with a pillory in one of the corners, and the only remaining town gate.
Hope you enjoyed that! Come along next time, follow my stories, and see what my country has to offer beyond Amsterdam. More to come!
Related posts:
There’s places beyond Amsterdam…
There’s places beyond Amsterdam…(chapter 3)
Other posts:
Paper Art exhibition, CODA museum, Apeldoorn, the Netherlands
My holidays are almost over now, but I’m sure I’ll find some time to add more chapters…if the weather will get a bit better!
Have a great day!