Taking last-mile directions from locals has its own benefits and enjoyment. I did this en route to Sheesh Mahal that was located deep inside of an old town called Farrukhnagar 20 kilometers from Gurugram near Delhi. The foremost fun is getting to interact with the locals and get to know a slang word or two. One of these was sidhe haat mudja सीधे हाथ मुड जा meaning take a turn ahead on the proper side. The slang word ‘proper side’ here means the right side.
Another short Haryanvi word is kon-ya को-न्या simply meaning ‘no’ that I heard on asking if there is any ticket vendor or security in there? To my surprise, I saw a person running down after a while who turned out to be both plus the tour guide
. The entry fees were INR 25 and surprisingly paper tickets were handed out and cash was accepted, when online payment is a norm everywhere else.
The tiny entrance to this medieval governor’s house was difficult to find in the narrow bylanes of Farrukhnagar but after entering it opened up in a huge sprawling open space that hosted a garden on both sides of what was an erstwhile water channel housing fountains.
*Caption: Collage of the Sheesh Mahal in Farrukhnagar near Delhi Made by Local Guide @TusharSuradkar *
The pathway in between led to the main building called Sheesh Mahal or crystal palace. Unfortunately, all the glasswork is now gone and what remains are the walls and ceilings that once adorned patterns of multi-colored glass and semi-precious stones.
*Caption: Collage of the Sheesh Mahal in Farrukhnagar near Delhi Made by Local Guide @TusharSuradkar *
The ceilings too were once ornately decorated with glass hence the name sheesh mahal but what still remains is the ruins of a majestic building.
*Caption: Collage of the Sheesh Mahal in Farrukhnagar near Delhi Made by Local Guide @TusharSuradkar *
The arches of the Diwan-e-Khas are attractive and there are several tunnels in the thick walls for ventilation.
Within the premises of the fortified palace are also the ruins of the servant quarters and out of nowhere appears this modern plaque that commemorates the sacrifice of the martyrs of the First War of Independence in 1957.
*Caption: Collage of the Sheesh Mahal in Farrukhnagar near Delhi Made by Local Guide @TusharSuradkar *
Time stood still in this medieval palace and I parted from this place with a heavy heart pondering about the glory that this grand home must have witnessed in its heydays.
*Caption: Collage of the Sheesh Mahal in Farrukhnagar near Delhi Made by Local Guide @TusharSuradkar *
I am not sure about this but to give an idea of what this Sheesh Mahal or crystal palace would have looked like have a look at the following Sheesh Mahals that are in good condition even today.
Also, there used to be a tunnel from the Mahal to reach the Pir Ghaus Ali Shah’s Baoli called Gol Bavdi which is now closed. The Bavdi is outside the Sheesh Mahal area. In the event of an attack, water must be secured. Hence the access to water was give from within the city, according to Vikramjit Singh Rooprai.
Have you visited what was once a grand palace that now lies in ruins? I’d be interested in knowing your experience.
Until then… Happy Guiding
Accessibility Features
The Sheesh Mahal Palace being a medieval monument has accessibility features limited to parking and toilets/washrooms.
Ramp Access.
A wheelchair-accessible Entrance.
A wheelchair-accessible Parking.
A wheelchair-accessible Restroom/Toilet.
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