Parenzana: cycling along an old railway (second part: Croatia)

I learned about Parenzana’s existence following a gift from Giampaolo and Luisa on my birthday. Knowing of their passion for cycling, they gave me a guide book for the Parenzana cycle route, on the route of an old disused Austro-Hungarian railway from Trieste to Parenzo (Porec), which they traveled the previous year.

We leave on July 14 for Croatia. We park just beyond the Slovenia-Croatia border, in Valizza and from here we take the Parenzana route.

Buje

We always climb with moderate slope up to Buje. These are places that I went to for work in the 90s but I find it hard to recognize them. Places where I passed with Fabio, and a little of all the places that we will pass in these days, have already been visited by me but, with different eyes! The railway skirts Buje and continues until it reaches Grožnjan (288 m.).

Grisignana’s station (Grožnjan)

Unexpected country, as walking along the railway, in the middle of nature, in a desolate place, you realize that you are reaching the top of the hill, only when you exit the tunnel and you are practically at Grožnjan station.

We eat in a restaurant, immersed in this country reborn thanks to artists who have taken it out of oblivion. A city where everything exudes art, from painting to music.

We are witnessing rehearsals inside a building, of a youth orchestra with members from all over the world. They perform a typical Slavic song, with winds, strings, guitars and voices. Under the colonnade of another building, young harpists are preparing themselves with their instruments, today is harp day! Difficult to start from here but we have to go, the road is long up to Motovun and everything has to be paved.

In fact, the Croatian stretch of Parenzana, unlike the Italian and Slovenian ones which are asphalted, runs through woods and hills, in a succession of climbs and descents, with various types of ground, gravel, ballast, earth but, always dirt .

We leave Grožnjan reluctantly, and continue slightly downhill towards the Mirna valley, and beyond the valley, the city of Motovun (277 m.), Which appears on top of its cliff in the middle of the valley, where we will stay for the night.

The Mirna valley is known for truffles and in fact, in the evening the dinner will be all based on trifola, even the dessert! Motovun is certainly a small architectural and landscape gem. To reach it we have to take a long tour around the hill, come out of a long tunnel and take the last challenging ramp to go up to the Kastel cliff, right on the tip, where the hotel is located. In the square of the castle, which is accessed through various doors on various walls, there is the church of Santo Stefano which, some sources, attribute to Palladio. Routes 45 km.

The next morning, departure for Porec. Always in the middle of woods and with bridges that cross valleys. The route remains interesting up to Visinada, then it began to lose some interest as it approached the coast.

piazza di Montona

We practically follow the original route to Višnjan, and continue on the road until we reach Porec.

Visinada

Visit to the city, which being July is very lively, and very different from the Porec I had known before the Serbo-Croatian war of '91. After having dinner in a small place near the beach, we relaxed with the massage chair we had in our room! What a buzz! Routes 35 km.

The following morning we return to the car through national roads with points to Novigrad, where we ate and Umag. Moments of happiness singing Lucio’s songs, daring descents and ascents! Routes 46 km.

Porec-Parenzo

Video Grisignana’s school of music


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Paolo profile

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جميل جدا

كم هذا رائع هل انت تقوم بالتنقل بحرية حول البلاد تزور الكثير من الأماكن هذا شيئ جميل جدا

شكرا على المشاركة المفيدة

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Ciao @_141 , iin this moment there are no possibility to travel anywhere and anyway. Covid19 stopped all travellers. I did my last trip in Sicily by bicycle in september.
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I will sure love to go on this fun adventure with someone who can cycle. nice photos. my favorite clip is of the women with the guitars.

I like the Photo that has the brick house with red roof and shows a part of the landscape.

nice article.

@plavarda

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Dear @Ewaade_3A Grisignana or Groznjan in middle of Istria (Croatia), was an abandoned land recover from some artists. Music, sculpture, painting are all over. Over of confusion of the beach, pacefull and green!

Ciao and thanks a lot!

Paolo

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Looks like a fantastic journey @plavarda thanks for sharing it.

Paul

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thanks a lot photography master @PaulPavlinovich !!! Your camera would have done better!

Ciao

Paolo

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I enjoyed your images @plavarda it made me feel like I was going somewhere. They’re great.

Paul

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oh, I see. Are you from Croatia? I know only one person from there . such a beautiful place

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the years pass @PaulPavlinovich and it is increasingly difficult to remember. That’s why I make stories with photos and videos of the trips, in order to preserve the emotions of those moments as much as possible :slightly_smiling_face:

Ciao

Paolo

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Dear @Ewaade_3A I living near Venice (Italy). My town is Vicenza UNESCO Heritage for Palladio’s villas. And where do you live?

Ciao

Paolo

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wow. I know few italians on Connect. my favorites are @Giu_DiB and @ErmesT

i live in NIGERIA

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The Croatian coast is beautiful, @plavarda

I gave technical assistance in a plant in Rovinj for years, ready to drive there everytime they called, and I worked for a few months in Zadar .

Both cities were part of the Venetian Republic, and in your photo of Montona , the water well has the lion of St. Mark carved in stone.

Paolo is a personal friend and a great local Guide @Ewaade_3A , and Vicenza, the city where he lives, is an open-air museum of Palladian architecture

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So, this Croatian side is really that close to Italy. I SEE @ErmesT

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Thanks @ErmesT and @Ewaade_3A , this social network unites people who live in distant places, so far away that probably, even with today’s extraordinary means, it will be difficult to visit. This is the reason why when I create a post, I try to tell, in addition to the story of the journey, the emotions of the moment and try to transfer them with words, photographs and videos. Croatia from my city is less than 300 km. You have to think @Ewaade_3A that until the end of the Second World War, the coast was Italian territory, then it became Yugoslavia and since 1991 Croatia. @ErmesT my friend! I too often went to Yugoslavia at the time, at the end of the 80s and early 2015, more precisely to Buje and Gimino always for work, I still have friends there and with them I have also experienced phone calls and tragedies of the moments of war. I returned to those places, just during the journey of Parenzana, passing by car to the hills of Zminj to greet these old friends. I discovered the floral aspect of those places with the beautiful orchids that I put here below.

Hello everyone

Paolo

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Hello @plavarda ,

Very nice journey through the beautiful Croatian contryside! All of these towns are quite charming. I loved seeing how young people can impact their community in a very positive way, like in Grisignana.

That’s a very good example of how work, commitment and dedication can make a difference. Thanks for sharing this inspiring post with us!

What was your favorite village amongst those ones?

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Thank you so much, @plavarda

I love the wild orchids too.

I visited Zadar right after the war ended. They are still clearing the area, and the houses were riddled with bullets. It was not an easy time

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@Giu_DiB there are substantial differences between Grožnjan and other visited countries such as Buje, Motovun. The latter two have always been the reference countries of the area around them, while Grožnjan has been completely abandoned and then recovered through artists who have recovered and transformed it in their image and likeness. It is a country that exists only for the purpose of art and does not have a real social structure, it is inhabited by artists and that’s it. A bit like Bussana VecchiaI met on my last year’s coast to coast bike trip in Liguria, but this is a story that I have yet to tell too, it is currently parked in my personal blog and I will have to unroll it for friends of LGC. Therefore, the young musicians you see in the video are guys from all over the world, in fact they all spoke in English for the most part, to learn to play the typical Slavic music. I felt like I was attending a concert by Goran Bregovich, beautiful!

Thanks!!!

Paolo

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Beautiful and perfect pics @ErmesT , at the right moment of flowering, dactylorhiza fuchsii and orchis purpurea. Zadar perhaps one of the cities that most of all preserve the Italian and Venetian memory in particular. I was very impressed by the old part of the city and in particular the sea organ. Have you ever seen it? Beyond belief!!!

Ciao Paolo

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Wow! Croatia is really close to you then.

But is driving for 300km several times a week not so much? @ErmesT I go to some parts of Lagos just 10 kilometres away several times a week and I think it is very stressful.

Thanks for your contribution. It’s almost like you know every Italian on Connect or maybe it’s the other way round. I wonder how it feels to live in a city that is a UNESCO world heritage site! There will be tourists every other time! I wonder how @plavarda copes with this.

I love the photos of these orchids particularly how you shot them @plavarda

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