Liguria (Italia): Coast to coast by bicycle. June 2020. Stage 7. Genoa to Rapallo

I wanted to start the day with an appeal to everyone not to be afraid. In fact, here in these semi-deserted hotels, I see the owners who do everything to respect the rules and to make their customers feel safe. They also confirm the great fear they feel in people, especially, clearly, from the phone calls they receive from the various regions of Italy. Certainly, cancellation calls arrive out of fear, I would like to say almost out of terror, rather than booking calls. I wanted to assure everyone that the safety regulations have been respected in all 7 hotels I have stayed in so far. The various buffets of the morning breakfasts are made so that everyone chooses the one they prefer, but does not touch the food, which is brought by the waiters to the table, always wearing a mask.

The first few times it feels a bit strange, but you get used to it quickly. Here it seems fair to point out that you run greater risks if you go to the supermarket, if you go to closed places, such as the post office, various offices or even go to the hospital for a few visits and not come for some deserved beach holidays, or in the mountains. Of course we have to fight with our mind that wants to instill fear in us at all costs, we have to overcome fears to be able to return, not to normality, but to an acceptable life.

(Boccadasse views)

Departure from Genoa early, around 9:15 am, first stop, always to please my sister, Boccadasse. About 6 km from Genoa, with a cycle path that reaches it after passing the Foce Genova area. Boccadasse is a typical seaside district, transformed from a tourist point of view into a place of relaxation for tourists, while preserving the characteristics of the fishing village. With the bike by hand I can take some photos, but I don’t go into the alleys and alleys as they are all steps. However, I manage to get to the small beach where once the boats were pulled ashore, all made of stones and from there admire the vastness of the sea framed by these houses.

(Camogli)

I continue on the Aurelia state road, whistling and singing, amid the hilarity of passers-by. The progress is considerably slowed down by continuous pedestrian crossings with traffic lights. Therefore it is all a succession of shots and braking between one red light and another. Ups and downs follow one another and through the various villages of Nervi, Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure, Sori, Recco, up to Camogli. Up to now there have been some climbs, even challenging ones, but they are nothing compared to what I’m going to do now is a real step, the Passo della Ruta. I wanted to visit Camogli, but I was unable to enter as there were works on the road and I continued straight thinking there was some other access, instead it was the only one. Therefore I took the route from under Camogli with a couple of km at 7%. When I arrived at the high crossroads for Camogli almost on the pass, to make one of my downsides, another cyclist stops and we begin to talk about bicycles, travel routes and the difficulties for a cyclist to carry out own physiological functions along the roads of Liguria, practically impossible. There is no meter, which is not private property or concrete, in short, you are never allowed to stop on a country lane, a sheep track in the woods, to be able to take a tad of pee. :slightly_smiling_face: :slightly_smiling_face:

(up pic. View from Hotel balcony) That’s why, having gone up to the Ruta, I did not follow his advice to go down to Santa Margherita Ligure, but I immediately rushed to Rapallo, to leave the bags the hotel, among other things fabulous, with an incredible view on Rapallo’s bay , and without forgetting to do what I had to do, I resume my journey towards Portofino, stopping at San Michele di Pagana to eat a plate of gnocchi with walnuts.
Calmly, pedaling slowly, after eating I go to Portofino, even knowing that it is not a place for my possibilities, but since we were here, I decided to see it. Magnificent views of the sea, on luxurious villas, certainly not modern, but villas overlooking the sea from the beginning of the last century. Mr Berlusconi, ex Premier and one of most rich man of Italy has a villas here.

I arrive in Portofino, go down towards the square, but I find myself in front of a sign prohibiting the circulation of bicycles, with printed underneath, with a normal printer, “also conducted by hand”.
Therefore not wanting to leave the bicycle unattended, and since there is no stall to be able to leave it, reluctantly, and even a little annoyed, I return to Rapallo. It is a rather strange episode, first because it does not mention any municipal ordinance, and then written like this with a printer. I do not want to, and I did not want to make controversy, I am retraced my steps. Especially to see a small square, a little glitz and feel like a fish out of water, I wouldn’t have got anything else.
Mr. Berlusconi’s villa Now I’m here, on my fabulous balcony, completing my article, with a fantastic view of the sea of Rapallo, at the bottom you can see Sestri Levante and you can imagine the spectacle of the Cinque Terre. Tomorrow will be a rather demanding stage with the highest point of the whole tour, the Passo del Bracco, which will take me down to Levanto in the Cinque Terre. Today 51 km and 640 m. in altitude. See you tomorrow

Don’t forget the movie!

9 Likes

Another beautiful post with great photos and video of a beautiful part of the world @plavarda . I recognize the photo of the Neptune Replica from my visit to Genoa. I saw so much there and loved the Porta Soprana Medieval gates, the historical Stazione Marittima, the St Andrew cloister ruins, Piazza di Ferrari and of course, Christopher Columbus’ House. I was surprised that your video didn’t show dedicated bicycle paths in this part of the world. It didn’t look safe to me for cycling :wink: