A few days ago, This post is first episode about my recent exploration through Punjab with a Sikh friend from England, where we visited numerous Sikh Gurdwaras, havelis from the Sikh era, and samadhis in five days. This haveli boasts remarkable fresco artwork, likely preserved due to its conversion into the Victoria Girls High School, restricting tourist access. Despite having frequented this mansion on several occasions, I never managed to enter it. However, by divine grace, my wish was fulfilled, granting me access to the Sheesh Mahal on the third floor—a site brimming with historical fresco art treasures. These images, unrivaled in their depiction of unique cultural nuances, aim to immortalize and educate art enthusiasts online. Regrettably, while these paintings endure within this edifice, many others across the 40-50 buildings we visited have succumbed to destruction. Notably, the primary targets of this vandalism were the faces of the characters within the artwork.
Haveli Nau Nihal Singh stands proudly within the old walled city of Lahore, a testament to the grandeur of the Sikh era. Recently, I had the opportunity to explore its intricate beauty alongside my friend Awara Gurdeep, a Sikh visitor from England. Despite the challenges in accessing the haveli, we were granted special permission by the Sikh council of Pakistan, allowing us a glimpse into its storied past.
Situated amidst narrow streets between the historic Bhatti and Lohari gates, the haveli emerges as a majestic remnant of a bygone era. Once surrounded by lush gardens, now lost to time, it retains its regal allure, adorned with mesmerizing fresco work that adorns its façade.
As we entered through the west-facing gate, we were greeted by a symphony of architectural marvels. The entrance gate, extravagantly embellished, hinted at the opulence within, while the simplicity of the adjacent section spoke of a different era, its former adornments faded by time’s relentless march.
Constructed by Nau Nihal Singh, the grandson of Maharajah Ranjeet Singh, in the 19th century, the haveli has stood witness to centuries of history. Despite facing the ravages of time, remnants of its former glory persist, particularly in the sheesh mahal on the third floor.
Ascending to this pinnacle of artistic expression, we marveled at its intricate design. The narrow room, adorned with wooden ceilings and mirrors, bore the imprint of Mughal influence intertwined with Sikh craftsmanship. It was a sanctuary of beauty, offering a glimpse into a world long past.
What struck me most was the amalgamation of influences within the haveli. While built by Sikhs, its ornamentation drew heavily from Hindu texts, a testament to the rich tapestry of cultural exchange that defined the era. The murals adorning its walls, among the finest of Sikh mural paintings, stood as a testament to this cross-cultural dialogue.
Yet, amidst the splendor, there lingered a sense of melancholy. The fate of similar structures, their paintings defaced and destroyed, served as a stark reminder of the fragility of heritage. It underscored the importance of preserving such treasures for future generations.
As I captured these moments through my lens, I realized the significance of our collective heritage. Whether Sikh, Mughal, or British, each era contributes to our shared identity. It is incumbent upon us to cherish and protect these legacies, viewing them not through the lens of bias, but with pride and reverence.
In exploring Haveli Nau Nihal Singh, I was reminded of the power of history to transcend boundaries, bridging the gap between past and present. It is a legacy worth preserving, a testament to the rich cultural mosaic that defines us as a nation.