A few weeks ago I traveled to Istanbul. As I was posting pictures on my social media, Local Guides asked me if I was going to create a blog post similar to A complete guide to Madeira: Getting around, best hikes, food and activities.
And the answer is: YES!
In fact, you are right at the start of the Istanbul guide.
I stayed in Istanbul way longer than the average tourist does. For 14 days I have been going around the city using the tips my Turkish friends gave me, and the detailed research I did beforehand.
Walking 15 km per day on average, using tons of public transport resulted in the below itinerary. This is a stacked overview of my Google timeline data over the full travel.
Curious how to make something like this? Check out my guide: How to: Layering Google Maps timeline
You simply cannot get bored in this city, even during a pandemic. All around the city, you will find remains of the Ottoman Empire’s Constantinople—your mind will be blown by the beauty of all the palaces and mosques.
When did you ever get the chance to travel from Europe to Asia and back multiple times in a week? In Istanbul, you can! The Bosphorus strait is dividing the city into the European side and the Anatalion or Asian side.
Enough chit-chat, let’s start this guide! Here is what you can expect:
- Getting around Istanbul
- Must-see things
- Food, food, food
All pictures in this post are taken by myself, with a Google Pixel 3XL.
1. Getting around
Car
I would not recommend getting a rental car in Istanbul for a few reasons. First of all, it requires good skills to navigate in the city, especially in the narrow streets of BeyoÄźlu district. Secondly, in a city of almost 20 million people, you can expect a lot of traffic jams which will slow you down. Last but not least, finding a cheap parking spot for your car might be problematic too.
Public transport
This is the ideal way to go from A to B. The public transport has been made so easy and accessible with the Istanbul card. You can get such card around metro and tram stations at a machine. You pay for the card once and you can recharge money on it. You tap the card to pay at literally every mode of transportation—ferry, bus, tram, metro, funicular. (except for private companies)
Tip: Use Google Maps for your public transport schedule! It was 99% of the time correct with all kinds of transport and always shows you the quickest way to get somewhere. Some ferries are not showing up in Maps though.
Uber
Use Uber instead of just taking a regular taxi, it will save you lots of money. The problem when you take a cab here as a tourist, is that they will not put on the meter and just charge you way more than they should. Uber to the rescue! Only taxis are using Uber - the same ones that you would catch on the street - but they have to use the meter with Uber so you will be charged a fair price.
I would recommend to only take Uber for places hard to reach by public transport.
2. Must-see things
Below are the most interesting places to visit in Istanbul.
All of the places (and many more, 27 in total!) are added to the list I created on Google Maps:Istanbul must-see!
Hagia Sophia
It was built more than 1500 years (!!!) ago. For 1000 years, it was the biggest Christian cathedral in the world and now it serves as a mosque.
Honestly one of the most impressive things I have seen in my life. I came here 5 times, just sitting on the floor and admiring its beauty. The energy this mosque gives you is indescribable… Goosebumps all the way!
Dolmabahçe Palace
I consider Dolmabahçe palace as the #1 thing to do in Istanbul. If you’d only have 1 day, go here!
This glamorous palace dates from the Ottoman empire and it has 285 rooms with a total size of 45.000 m2—perfect as an Airbnb when you visit Istanbul.
Topkapi palace
This palace served as a home to Ottoman sultans for more than 400 years. It is a way different style than Dolmabahçe but so worth visiting!
Çamlıca Mosque
It is a new mosque, just a couple of years old and the biggest one in Turkey.
It is a hyper modern one, with many escalators on the outside to reach it as well a huge underground parking so people from the neighborhood and Istanbul can reach it easily. Inside it looks very modern as well, but it misses the authencity of a mosque because of that. I would prefer Hagia Sophia over this one any day, architecture wise.
The best time to come is just before sunset, walk around the gardens as well to have one of the best views over the city. The mosque becomes magical once the evening lights go on!
Not easy reachable by public transport, I would recommend an Uber to go here.
Ortaköy mosque
It is not just the mosque that you should come here for, but Ortaköy in general. Around this mosque there is a lovely small village with cozy restaurants, bars and shops. Come here around sunset to get magnificent views on the Bosphorus and the bridge.
Karaköy Pier
One of my favorite spots in Istanbul, located just next to Galata bridge and the ferry station. Take a drink, sit down and relax, you have an amazing view on the mosques in Fatih!
Galata tower
Galata Tower is true heritage and one of Istanbul’s most visited touristic spot. During the day you have a nice clear view over the city, but I would recommend to come during sunset on a clear day. It is just magnificent! Around Galata Tower there are many touristic souvenir shops as well food and drink places.
Grand Bazaar
If you like shopping, this is your place to go! Wander around in the 61 covered streets which has more than 4000 shops. I am certain that you will find some souvenirs here. Make sure to bargain though!
Princes’ Islands Büyükada
Make sure to go one day to Büyükada, the biggest island of the Princes’ Islands. Rent a bicycle, go around this gorgeous island and visit the Aya Yogi—a church of more than a thousand years old. It is a popular getaway for the Istanbulites so leave early, as it gets crowded on the island fast.
Anadolu Kavağı
Last but not definitely not least, as this is a pure hidden gem. Take the boat from Eminönü to Anadolu Kavağı which is a 2 hour ride all the way up the Bosphorus close to the Black Sea, and this for just 30 TL! (3 euros)
You’ll arrive in a picturesque fisher village with lots of cozy restaurants and bars, as well souvenir shops. Hike up to Yoros’ castle, which used to be a guarding point to check who is entering the Bosphorus.
Starbucks Bebek
One might ask, what the heck is a Starbucks doing in this list? Well, it is your end point of a gorgeous walk!
Take the bus to Arnavutköy and walk all the way to Bebek. It is a huge promenade with lots of fishermen and yachts. It offers the most beautiful view on the Bosphorus in Istanbul! The Bosphorus terrace in Starbucks is also really nice to sit at.
3. Food
The food scene in Istanbul is outrageous. So many European and Asian influences are resulting in thousands of unique restaurants and food places. As a tourist, the amount of Turkish Liras you are getting is higher than ever, so you’ll eat for almost no money!
Same as with the must-see things, I have made a list on Google Maps with all the good food places:Istanbul must-eat!
Unfortunately, because of stricter Covid measures a week after I got there, I did not visit as many restaurants as I wanted to. Below is an overview of what was the best yummy for my tummy!
Bilice Kebap
Probably one of the most beautiful restaurants I have been in. It is decorated with thousands and thousands of notes of people that have visited! I couldn’t believe my eyes.
For the food, you choose what kind of meat skewers you want and they serve a huge plate that covers the whole table with some small plates of salads.
It was really delicious. Slightly more expensive than other places but the experience is for a lifetime!
Halil Lahmacun
When a restaurant is limited to just 2 dishes on the menu, you know it is good. This place is specialized in lahmacun and pide. They both were delicious, especially the pide with cheese!
Service was very friendly and it is a really cheap place.
Dönerci Engin Usta`nın Yeri
This place is pretty new, and it is located on a street leading to Galata Tower so there are huge lines for this döner place usually, and there is a good reason for that. The taste of it is delicious, the meat is already cooked with paprika in it and the bread is crunchy.
Balikci Askoroz
Not the fanciest place, but if the food is good I definitely don’t mind that. And the food is delicious here!
Sea bream and blue fish highly recommended, the shrimp casserole was a bit disappointing to be honest.
Staff is incredibly friendly and attentive.
Emin Usta
This is one of the more popular places for a fish wrap but unfortunately that does not mean that it is the best.
They try to seduce you with overpriced fish dishes but just take the wrap if you come here. It is delicious but the service is quite slow and not very friendly.
A few days later I found an old man with a cart nearby the pier making fish wraps, way better ánd cheaper! Walk towards Galata bridge from this restaurant and you’ll find this man:
Nevizade Kokoreç - Erdal Usta
A lovely friend of mine told me that I should try Kokoreç, which are the intestines of a lamb.
It was incredibly delicious!
That’s all folks!
I sincerely hope that you enjoyed the post as much as I had writing it.
Let me know if you liked the content in a comment below!
Have you been to Istanbul already? Share your experiences with me.
Peace out, stay safe.
Stephen