An Foreign Trip to Myanmar without Passport
“Oye, yaha halat khrab h, aur tu idhar picnic bnane aa gya", (It's a tense and critical situation here, and you come here for a picnic, Yelled an army-man while suggesting me to take care during the stay at Imphal; as I just landed at Airport.
I was a some sense of fear deep in my heart. I thought in my mind, "Yar kahi bina bat pange m to ni pad gya main", "I was wondering "had i invited trouble for myself". Still with few army-man on my side, I felt safe and was again and again rethinking about my decision to visit as I was waiting for army-man to collect their checked in-luggage from conveyor belt.
We came out of airport, It felt normal, but with fear in mind, I with fellow army-man hired a Auto Towards North AOC point, where he suggested me as a safe place to stay. As I support Cashless Economy program of our incumbent Indian Govt and was a chief organizer for creating awareness for Cashless Economy near by places in Mumbai, so I used to carry less cash and be Cashless. But with fear in mind and experience of ATM absence in rural areas, I thought of taking out money from the ATM. Sadly, ATM didn't worked.
I didn't wasted time as I didn't wanted to lose company of Army-man and moved towards the City Area of Imphal. After reaching North AOC point, I looked for a few hotels and then took a room at a Hotel in North AOC Point and bid good bye to the army-man with whom i felt safe throughout my journey from airport to hotel. Sadly, Hotel Owner was not following Cashless Economy and he asked me to deposit money before taking room. I didn't had the cash, so I left to find ATM to take out money.
As I came out of Hotel, I saw 40-50 army-man near my Hotel, I got frightened, for a moment, I though indeed there is something wrong, but as they spread over some distance, I moved my steps rapidly towards an ATM which was 700-800 meters away. At distance of 10-15 meters, there was a soldier keeping a close eye on surrounding. I was wondering, a mistake, a bullet and all over.... I came back with money, paid hotel owner and took charge of room.
Since, I am from north India, We have seen border as the one shown in movies and news, we haven't seen much of open borders that I hardly knew that there is an open border with Myanmar. So I was unaware of the fact that I can visit Myanmar too but it was amazing to hear from Army-man who had suggested me to visit Myanmar through an open border. I visited the travel agent beneath my hotel and booked a seat for Myanmar Border town (Moreh) for Rs 500. Since being, IITian, I sensed a less possibility of waking up early, I even told my room number to driver to pick me up at 5am from hotel room, incase I don't pick up the phone.
One can imagine, how exciting is it to visit a place where on reaching, you come to know that you can visit another country too. So I made a plan to visit it next morning and visited the Ima Keithel (Woman Market), Bir Tikendrajit Park and Imphal Market. We have often heard, woman can't do this thing, that thing, but the way women solely manage Ima Keithel, it was treat to watch. Buyers can be anyone, but all shops are run by woman. Then the market was running in a temporary place near to Tikendrajit park as building was damaged in an Earthquake about a month ago. It was satisfying for me to see how smart people of imphal shifted it to temporarily place and were doing a good business. No one can read from their face that just one month ago, they faced an earthquake of more than 6.5 scale.
After having a evening roam of the city, with dipping temperature and brightness, I came back to my hotel room and after dinner, I was turned on TV. Things, I hardly do it, but with very limited internet connectivity, I had no other choice. Suddenly a news flashed Nagaland CM Resigns, for a moment, I thought as If I was in Nagaland and what will happen of my tomorrow plan as at times resignation of Govt also invites some law and order problem. Soon, I realized that I am in Manipur, not Nagaland. That day I slept a bit late as I was assured of being woken up by my travel operator.
As I blinked eyes, It was 6.30am and I saw my mobile, there was 2 missed calls and I immediately called driver to know that he had already covered half of distance. Soon, I went down to find travel operator was yet to open his shop. I came back, got ready and like a locals, took an auto to taxi stand where I was given a celebrity treatment by taxi drivers who were waiting to get their taxi filled. I bargained a bit and got 40% discount on the price which was given to me by travel operator and started my journey to Moreh.
On the way, we had a halt a Thoubal, I interacted with a few local people and was amazed to see many of them didn't knew Irom Sharmila, someone who gave up her so many valuable years for civil rights. Then by afternoon, we reached Moreh and I took a room at USD 5 for a day. After check in, I left to explore Myanmar. It was a walking distance from Moreh Taxi stand to Indo-Myanmar Market.
A Grand gate gave me huge welcome to Myanmar and I entered into Moreh market on Myanmar side which one can enter by showing any ID Card. On reaching Myanmar, I took a immigration slip to visit a Tamu market which is about 3km from the India.
Then I sat for snacks at a restaurant in Myanmar and suddenly i saw a wall clock reading 2.00 pm, I was wondering whether i took 1.5 hours to cover this much distance. Suddenly, I realized that I am in different time zone, when I saw my mobile showing 1 pm.
Unlike India, at restaurant, Myanmar people keep packed bun and other eating stuff at every table and you need to pay as per your consumption, It was a unique thing for me to observe. They additionally offered brownish drink free of cost. Food over there had few changes like they use a lot of oil to cook full fry dishes and keep it ready in advance while in India, we get it made only on order.
Then I took a shared auto for Rs 10 to Tamu Market and observed the changes in the market over there just within a distance of few kms.
Many of them knew the manipuri language, but very few knew hindi and english also. Else sign language may also let you survive over there. I took a green coconut, but it took me 30-35 minutes to instruct them to open it for me to drink and in the end, I could hardly managed to drink leave aside the cream of it. As a memento of my ability to unable to make them understand, I brought it back to be consumed by me, but later gifted it to the hotel owner. People at tamu seemed having low income as compared to India side. Therefore prices for few commodities were low. I met a guy who brought a bicycle from Myanmar as it costed him less. Similar cycle from India would have cost 50-60% more as cycle needs to brought from industrial hubs which are far away from the North East India.
The open border and market is playing an important role for livelihood and exchange of goods for people of both the countries.There is more poverty in Myanmar as compared to India. On return, I purchased few gifts for my friends. On the way to market, policeman trying to stop fire in some forest place.
At 4.00pm Indian time and 5pm Myanmar time, gate of friendship close, which opens the next day again sending a message of harmony among two countries. What would have been the case, if we had such wonderful borders with all our nations where an Aam Aadmi may have visited at-least nearby countries without any visa or money requirement. One thing is for sure, Had it been that case, travellers like me would have definately enjoyed a lot more than what we do now.
(Having roamed most of India by end of 2016, North Eastern part of India was the untouched sector which I had plans from since last many years to discover. I am thankful to My ex-roommate was marrying his present girlfriend in traditional Kolkata, which opened a window for me to explore North-east.)
2022
