After the popular, crowded and exciting Langtang-Gosaikunda trek last year, this time I was bound for a completely contrasting trek to Manaslu circuit. Manaslu, also known as Kutang is the eighth highest peak in the world at 8,163 meters above sea level. Manaslu Round trip is a stunning circuit with spectacular views of Mount Manaslu (8163 m) and other mountain ranges.
Day 1, November 23, Dhadingbesi – Our trip started on the evening of November 23, 2018 with travel to Dhadingbesi by car. It was already 8:30 P.M when we reached there. It took about 4-5 hours to reach there from Kathmandu.
Day 2, November 24, Lapubesi – After staying overnight in Dhadingbesi, next morning at 10:00; we picked up the first bus to Aarughaat. It was a crazy bumpy drive for over three and a half hours. I was unable to get a short nap during the drive which I was hoping for; because of lack of sleep with late night heavy drinking. From Aarughaat, we needed to catch another bus to Sottikhola (700 m) which was bound to leave at around 2:30 P.M. The trip was again rough along Budhi Gandaki River, but this time it lasted for an hour. From Sottikhola, our trek followed the Budhi Gandaki through the Sal forest and rugged cliffs to the Gurung village of Lapubesi and stayed overnight.
Day 3, November 25, Jagat – The trek started early morning at 7:00 and ascended on a rocky road alongside Budhi Gandaki and passed through Nauli Khola, Khanibesi, Macchakhola, Khorlabeshi to Tatopani where we had lunch. We then get past Uiya and Lhakpa to reach our final destination - Jagat. On the way we crossed cantilever bridge perched along the rocky cliff with Budhi Gandaki flowing beneath. It was the first time I have seen a cantilever bridge and it was fascinating.
The rapid road construction was going on from Sottikhola to Jagat, as clear from demolition of cliffs, dozer clearing debris and workers drilling. It was more painful to walk in a rugged path than in natural trails. The ongoing blasting for the construction hurried our trek and also halted in a few places. There is a plan to build an international road to Tibet and India passing through here. Its great road network is being developed connecting the region to other parts of Nepal and it is an opportunity of development where furthest village lies 5-6 days by foot and mule transports goods. But along with an opportunity, a question is also associated about its impact on pristine ecology, environment and culture. There needs to be an ideal balance with a focus towards sustainability. In the least developed countries like Nepal where the government follows the Western model of unsustainable development without considering local context, it is hard to argue for sustainable development. Government is the reflection of the public and the majority of them are attracted to the glitters of development in developed nations. I hope they develop alternative trekking routes in this region when the road is completed.
Day 4, November 26, Deng – The day started early in the morning from Jagat. We reached Sirdibas and then to Philim where we had our lunch. Next stop was Eklebhatti and to Lokpa which was the junction from where the trail going to Larkya La pass and Tsum valley (extra 5-6 days) separates. The final destination Deng was reached early at around 3:30 P. M but we decided not to go further as we were too tired for the day.
Day 5, November 27, Namrung - The day started with the target of reaching Namrung. We crossed Rana and then had lunch in Bihi. After lunch, the village of Prok and Ghap passed and reached Namrung.
Day 6, November 28, Samagaun – The day started with the target of reaching Samagaon from Namrung. The village of Lihi and Sho was crossed to reach Lho. From the beginning of the trek; trail was usually along the slope of Budhi Gandaki, so snow peaks were not visible until we were gradually climbing up and Lhi was reached. From Lhi, we started to get glimpses of snow covered mountains. The lunch in Lho for today, by far it was one of the best in the last few days. We ascended further through a pine forest to Shyala with many beautiful peaks in the backdrop, but cloudy weather was the penultimate villain obscuring the top of Manaslu. The rest and amazing view in Shyala was refreshing. We continued on the trail and reached the village of Samagaon at the foot of Manaslu.
Day 7, November 29, Dharmasala – The target for the day was to reach Dharmasala. Our first plan was to visit Pungen Gompa, Birendra Lake, and reach Samdo. But with desperation of returning early to Kathmandu, we adjusted the plan. Besides, the weather was also cloudy, there was no point going to Pungen Gompa for a closeup view of Manaslu. So, we only visited Birendra Lake on the way and ascended forward to Dharmasala. It would have been a big regret if we had missed on Birendra Lake out of desperation to reach Kathmandu faster. It was pristine and the whole view was so amazing. With Mount. Manaslu on its backdrop, melting of Manaslu glacier forms the Birendra Lake. After exploring Birendra Lake, we continued towards a trail to Manaslu Base Camp and from that point; we continued downhill to the south to catch up with the trail to Samdo. We were lost in the bushes for an hour as we couldn’t find the trail. Finally back to the Samdo trail, we descended to the Budhi Gandaki River, followed it and passed through several mani walls; and the mountain views along the trail were amazing.
We stopped in Samdo around 1:00 P. M and had lunch. After lunch, It took around 4 hours to reach Dharmasha, and it was the most difficult ascent in the past few days with a chilling wind. There were only three hotels in Dharmasala. Two were open with one hotel already full as it was the end of the season. It was freezing in Dharmasala, so we warmed ourselves with hot soup. In the evening, the dinner (dal-bat) tasted so bad, I literally ate it just to get comfort and calories. I needed to be fit and in good health, so that I can continue tomorrow to the highest point of our trek, Larkya La. The food was so expensive to throw away with Rs 800 charged for dal-bhat. No doubt everything is expensive with hotels opened there in extreme conditions and the goods carried by mule up there.
Day 8, November 30, Larkya la – The journey to the highest point of the trek, Larkya La (5106 m) started as early as at 5:00 a.m. In our hurry to start the trek early in the morning, we forgot to fill water bottles and we were left with just half liter of water for four people. The ascent was very difficult with freezing temperature and wind. The lack of water made it more difficult. At last, it took about 5 hours to reach the top. Near the top we came across a small glacial lake which was frozen. The panoramic view from the top was so breathtaking. We stayed there for half an hour clicking some beautiful pictures. It was refreshing. Finally we were ready to descend and the most difficult part of our whole trek was waiting for us. The trail down was small, steep, rugged and rocky with a lot of landslides on the way but still the beautiful view of the mountains was along with us. It was one of the most difficult trials I had ever been on. Even crossing Thorong La pass (5400) was not as difficult as this. After two hours of treacherous descent, a small cottage was reached where we had lunch. After a further one hour walk, a small village called Bimthang was reached. It was only 2:30 P.M, so the trek was continued for another 3 hours till Chauli Kharka with two cottages in the middle of the forest. But we were in a hurry to catch the jeep to Besisahar by tomorrow, so the trek continued further to Surki. It was already very dark when we reached there. We stayed in Seven Sister hotel which was opened of the two cottages available there. It was a very tiring day but in the end it was worth it. To make up for that day, local chicken was available in the hotel and we had a great chicken dinner with a local drink. It felt like it had already been ages since I had such a delicious dinner.
Day 9, December 1, Besisahar – The target for today was to reach Besisahar and get a bus to Kathmandu till evening. The day started at 8 A.M. It took around two and half hours to reach Gowa (2470 m) and another 2 hours to reach Tilche. From Tilche it was another 1 hour to reach Dharapani on Besisahar-Chame Highway from where a jeep to Besisahar possibly could be available. There was one jeep available which was heading Besisahar from Chame. There was no seat available, so we all hopped in the back of the jeep alongside luggages and other stray passengers like us. The travel was bumpy and dusty. We were all covered in dust by the time we reached Besisahar. It was almost 10 years back when I trekked from Besisahar - Thorong La - Muktinath. Back then I walked all the way from Besisahar and this highway was still under construction. I could hardly recognize the places that I travelled through back then. It was almost 5:00 P.M when the jeep reached Besisahar. There was no bus going to Kathmandu by that time, so we had some food and drinks; and waited for a private car that was coming for us from Kathmandu.
