#. MaGIC-11. Sunny 16 Rule & f 8 Rule, good for day-to-day..!

Hi all,

@DeniGu @LucioV @Bishnu_Modh @SalmaanN @NirajBhusal @omartonti @TPattanaik @muangmin @geliersanta @Lera76

Finally, before we come to the ‘Triangle’ & Sunny 16 Rule, we need to know a few more things.

(Refer the Diagram given by LucioV in MaGIC-10; it will immensely help you to understand this post & in future).

  • Aperture (measured as ‘Stops’ - explained, later – It’s simple, don’t worry), has two responsibilities:
    1. Control the ‘Quantum’ or amount of light entering the Camera &
    2. Aperture, also determines, The distance / area in FOCUS (Depth of Field).

Simple: (For f number chart, ref LucioV)

#. For Low light Photography, try to take the maximum dia of the Aperture (lowest f may be 2.8 or 3.6 or so…) – the focal are will be limited; background may be blurred.

#. For wider depth of field, go for f 8; ensure proper lighting; expect good results!

#. Even, for wider & sharp focus range, 16 or 22 can be used. Really good light will be needed.

#. And remember, the f number increases, the shutter dia decreases! (Mathematically derived system)

#. For every Stop (f), the light entering the camera will be half of the previous Stop.! ie. from 1.4 to 2, the light entering will be half & from 2 to 2.8, again, half (ie. one fourth of the 1.4), etc.

  • “Shutter”: Actually this should have been “Shutter Speed”; ie. The duration of light passing through the Aperture to the Image Sensor, in SECONDS.! If the shutter is kept open for 1 Second, then the Value is 1, if light is allowed for one hundredth of a second, then 1/100 (or mere 100), 1/1000 for sports, etc. Pro Camera can keep the shutter open (Tripod stand only) for, up to 30 Seconds !

Very generally (in normal lighting condition):

#. For Handheld camera, 1/100 (sec) is good Low value;

#. Lightly moving object, 1/200 to 1/400;

#. Still faster, go for 1/800 or 1/1,000. (just giving very basic guide line – Many other parameters also interfere)

  • ISO – Not a parameter, just a short-form [explained earlier] (got in here from Film camera). Here, for the time being, we will say,

#. The optimum (or preferred) ISO is said to be 100.

#. ISO Ranges from 50 (Lowest sensitivity = higher light & longer Shutter opening time will be needed)

#. Higher the sensitivity, Lower light & shorter shutter duration can do; but, the clarity will be reduced due to higher Grains Level. [In LucioV picture, this is very clear).

#. Play safe: use ISO, within 1/10th of the maximum ISO, available in your camera.

Interesting: The highest ISO value known to me is ISO 5,00,000 (Sony Alpha S7 series)!

Now, our Sunny 16 Rule:

Just an example (only, due to the length of the post), ‘In a sunny day, f 16 with 1/200 Shutter & ISO 200 is said to be good (Details, later… I am going long…)

Lastly

f 8 Rule: As a fact, if you use f 8, (of course with appropriate, Shutter speed & ISO), generally speaking (under normal lighting conditions, in most of the DSLR / SLR, the result will be good.

(Sorry, little boring – Pl read it in 2 days; I know, that, each of these parameters, are very deep & needs volumes of books to explain; humbly, I have tried to help the common people / laymen – hope it is useful, thanks)

Also, our ‘Triangle’, surely we will complete in the next session. (These, basics are needed for that)

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Hi, @TravellerG

Your expertise in photography is a useful tool for other local guide to capture best shot thanks for sharing

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Lot of informations here @TravellerG !

I want to add some bits about the shutter speed; a general rule is to use a 1/x time where x is the real focal length of the optics. So if you are using a 200 m telephoto lens, to avoid microblur, you have to choose at least 1/200 shutter speed or faster.

Another thing to understand is the concept of MTF (Modulation Transfer Function): usually each lens has got a unique MTF, and reading this you can ensure to use the lens in it’s better area of usage: i.e. a Nikon 50 mm f1.8 lens has a MTF like this

An ideal MTF is flat and have a 1 on Y axis.

This is a great lens, that has no evident resolution fall closing the diaphragm (due to diffraction).

Many cheap lenses has a different curve and you have to carefully choose your minimum aperture; often you cannot go over f8 to avoid diffraction and no less than f4 to avoid distortion.

Another important thing about lenses is to always use the center, to avoid vignetting and border distortion; pricy lenses can be used with the subject in any place.

Using FX lenses on DX sensors will reduce the risk of image decay on borders.

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Great to know that the post was useful…

If you share with your friends, it will be more beneficial… Hope, I am right…

I highly appreciate your view, dear friend @LucioV ,

But, will the audience in this series, be able to digest even a part of this. I surely agree, advanced level photographers may be able to enjoy. Sorry, once again, while thanking you, I hint that this series, I expected to be for common people…

Hope you will take this comment in the right spirit,

with gratitude for all your valuable contributions…

Expect your further guidance and contribution…

Regs

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You are right my friend @TravellerG ! Sorry If I went too much deep in technicals :slight_smile: