I walk Manarola at dawn, but the sun rises behind the mountain that overlooks it. The sun will come in two hours. Having to leave this place always leaves you in doubt: will I have seen enough? Will I have missed some glimpses or details that I could enjoy if I did 20 meters more? And here the 20 meters more follow, one after the other.
I climb up to the top of the cliff on which the town stands. From here I can see both towards Rio Maggiore and the way of love, with the station which is practically its departure, and towards Corniglia. I see, in the distance, the mountains above Levanto surrounded by pink clouds at their sides. I go down the steps that run between the houses and until I reach the corner at the end, I cannot guess if the staircase is proceeding or if I have ended up in a dead end. I reach the port and from there I go up the side towards Corniglia.
The light is diffused, the sun has not yet hit the top of the houses. I climb and go higher and higher, the view is constantly changing. I decide to return without stopping to observe. Arriving at the small church near the accommodation, I see on the side of the gentlemen who are cultivating the land on the terraces that serve as a vegetable garden. I make a further detour and climb even higher, from here I can dominate all of Manarola, even the part not overlooking the sea. Two hours have passed and the sun is now starting to hit the first houses. The landscape changes colors. The sun illuminates the green and diffuses the yellow and red of the houses. We go from watercolor colors to strong oil colors. It is time for breakfast, I return and I also prepare for departure. Calmly, at 10:20 am I leave. Clearly the first 300 meters are impossible to face. Already a local had warned me that he had abandoned his bicycle at the age of 70, because he was no longer able to do the first 300 meters which are at 13%. I haven’t even tried it. I push and it is very hard even on foot. Of course, yesterday I struggled downhill, let’s say it was also wet, braking was a challenge. After this initial rise, the road continues with a more moderate slope, very easy to pedal, until I reach an altitude of 300 meters.
From there, splendid views of the almost overhanging sea. The blue is intense and the sun warms the skin. Down below, the town of Riomaggiore, with throngs of boys just unloaded from the train. For a few km I stay on this balcony overlooking the sea, up to a tunnel, over a km long, which takes me to the side of La Spezia. Leaving the tunnel, I immediately notice a sudden change of vegetation. It may be because you pass from the south facing side to a north side, but here it almost seems to be in a wood of our Berici hills. A few cypresses, tall grass and no longer the Mediterranean scrub.
I go down to La Spezia. I reach the plain, a sharp turn to the right and forward towards Porto Venere. About 9 km of ups and downs, also along the naval base of La Spezia. Portovenere immediately gives me good vibes. Seeing an old medieval village, with the castle, a small church in the background in the middle of the sea, makes me want to climb to the top of the hill and admire the view from above, all this after having filled the belly for good…
At 2 pm I leave and climb up some steps, which pass alongside the castle walls. These walls remind me of the ones I saw in Dalmatia, in the village of Mali Ston, which surround the whole village passing high on the mountain, to protect the village also from attacks from the mountain. At the top, the show is breathtaking. I also take some photos. Then I go down, not without difficulty, on the very high steps and go towards the church.
This church, dedicated to St. Peter, was built on the site on which there was a temple dedicated to the goddess Venus, born from the foam of the sea, which abounds in this place. Clearly the name of the town originates from this temple. Beautiful views from the walls near the church, with openings that allow me to see the sea below. From one of these, I see a cave, called Byron’s, near which many people go for diving. I also go up to the top of the church terrace, paying close attention to the staircase, which has now become smooth and slippery due to the continuous passage of people and tourists.
Return to the hotel where I stay, passing under the colored houses facing the sea, which have made Portovenere famous. Now my journey is coming to an end. Tomorrow small transfer to La Spezia where I will load the bicycle on the rental car and return to Sanremo to retrieve my car. Today 26 km by bike and 370 m. in altitude.
