Last week I fulfilled a life long dream of mine and went to Iceland. I went on a 7 day road trip in a camper van and then a few days in Reykjavik for Pride. I booked via Camper Van Iceland, who were really amazing throughout the planning phase and during the trip were always ready and quick to answer any questions I had. If you have read some of my older posts you know that I love combining seeing new countries and sightseeing with the local Pride activities. However, this has been my first camping/road trip kind of adventure so I was a bit nervous to put myself out of my comfort zone. However, I dare say this has been the greatest trip of my life so far. Iceland’s nature truly left me searching for words to describe the things and the beauty of what I have seen. In this blog post I will use words like sensational, breath-taking, jaw-dropping, magnificent, glorious etc, however, I feel those words don´t even come close to the things I have felt.
I will focus on the main stops I have made along the south coast and on tips of how to hack certain destinations in terms of avoiding tourists. I struggle with crowds and if you are a bit like me, you might feel that hundreds of tourists diminish a location’s appeal no matter how sensational it is. In general, you will have less crowds in the morning and the more you sightsee your way through the day no matter what, by the afternoon all the main spots are heaving with tourists especially in the summer season. So the best thing to avoid crowds is to be extremely early or very late in the day, which in summer should be possible because there are so many hours of daylight.
Note that I have only been on the road for 7 days and only moved between Reykjavik and the Glacier Lagoon/Diamond Lake. Technically it would have been possible to complete the whole Ring Road which goes all around the island, but I wanted to focus on being present and taking my time. The Ring Road is not to be confused with the Golden Circle, which is a much smaller area close to Reykjavik which most tourists frequent to see some of the main sights close to the capital. I did some of the Ring Road and then headed a bit further East.
1. Gullfoss Falls
Gullfoss Falls (like 1001 other waterfalls) are one of the main attractions close to Reykjavik and it was my first stop after picking up the camper van. It is an absolutely spectacular chasm of waterfalls.
Crowd Avoidance Angle: There were many tourists there and at this stage, I wasn’t quite clued up to look for alternatives away from the crowds, but rather than going down to the falls themselves you can go left to reach a look out which usually has less people, but you can see the whole spectacle.
2. Ægissíðufoss Waterfall
Ægissíðufoss Waterfall is not quite as powerful as other waterfalls, but there are almost no people here, so you can enjoy the pretty sight and atmosphere in peace.
3. Seljalandsfoss Waterfall
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall is a true spectacle to behold and probably one of the most visited sights in the area. A giant and extremely powerful waterfall. One of the pull compared to the many many other waterfalls is the fact that you can actually go behind it (and get very wet depending on how the wind blows). But like all mesmerising things in the area it comes with massive crowds. There is hardly a way around this unless you are really early or really late in the day. However, there are a few sights nearby which I personally found impressive and are worth checking out for some more quiet nature time.
Crowd Avoidance Angle 1: Eyvindarholt Plane Wreck: Not to be confused with the much more famous sight of the Solheimsandur Plane Wreck by the beach, which you probably know from pictures. However, the Eyvindarholt Plane Wreck is just before the Seljalandsfoss Waterfall coming from the East and as it is a bit hidden but very close to the main road, there were hardly any people there when I went. However, the plane wreck and the vast fields from the sea to the mountains behind it made the whole scene for me really jaw-dropping, especially since I had like 10 minutes where no one was there and the wind was blowing the dark clouds over the scenery - it was truly atmospheric.
Crowd Avoidance Angle 2: I just happened to stumble upon Írárfoss Watefall because I clicked on it on the map out of curiosity, it is just a bit further West to Seljalandsfoss, while by far not as powerfully, it still packs a punch (if you dare venturing close to it) and is truly a magical place to behold and there were absolutely no humans in sight whatsoever. It is an idyllic place hidden off the road which turns into a creek and beautiful nature around it. I sat there for at least one hour and humbly took it all in with tears in my eyes.
4. Skogafoss Waterfall
Skogafoss Waterfall is another big (!) one literally and in terms of tourist attraction. It is high, it is wide and extremely powerful, so no wonder it is one of the main attractions in that area. Again, you can avoid crowds by going really early or really late, but it always seems to draw at least some people into its glorious rhythm. There is a high staircase chucked onto the hill right next to it which leads to a platform high above so you can look down on it, which is worth the view in all directions.
Crowd Avoidance Angle: What I wish someone would have told me (so I would have packed for a loooong hike) is that once you have reached the viewing platform, there is a hiking path right behind it leading into the hills and even a bit higher up. It leads along the river and if you have stamina and rations you can follow this path for several hours which leads to more jaw-dropping sights, several more mind-blowing waterfalls and nature in all its glory which again I struggle to put into words.
5. Solheimsandur Plane Wreck
The Solheimsandur Plane Wreck is anextremely famous plane wreck site at the beach which you can only reach by walking 45 minutes through flat barren land or by taking the shuttle bus which takes only 10 minutes. I did the walk as it felt extremely cathartic to reach your destination like that: the vast planes, the jaw-dropping mountains behind and next to you, all extremely sensational. But, I also got lucky with the weather, I had sunshine and few clouds and perfect temperatures. I have read of other experiences where people had to face windy dust onslaughts not to mention if you wanted to do it in winter, so please be mindful of your safety, equipment and your rations if you decide to walk it.
Crowd Avoidance Angle: This one is quite straight forward: reach the plane by walking before the first shuttle arrives, which would be at 10.10am in the morning. Once the shuttle service starts, there is really no way of avoiding the masses. However, you might get lucky to catch a minute or two in between people leaving and the new human herds arriving. You might also venture out a bit further into the dunes, which no one really does. But again mind your safety, as distances can be deceiving in this area. When you start walking from the parking lot to the beach you can see the sea in the vast distance and don’t think it will really take 45 minutes, but it really does and it is a trek not to be underestimated as you are exposed to the elements with nowhere to hide.
6. Dyrhólaey Lighthouse + Viewpoint
The Dyrhólaey Lighthouse Viewpoint is maybe less interesting for the lighthouse itself, but an absolute jaw-dropper of an experience for its magnificent views over the coast line, the massive planes and the mountains in the distance. I dare say it is the most spectacular view I have ever seen in my life. Plus, puffins!
Crowd Avoidance Angle: The viewpoint and the lighthouse are on a large and steep plateau, so despite a medium amount of crowds in the afternoon, it is all very spread out so that it doesn’t feel too cramped, however, if you want to have a bit more quiet from the parking lot instead of going to the lighthouse directly on the left, go right to a bit more off the track plateau to avoid the crowds and you still get breath-taking views.
7. Black Sand Beach
Black Sand Beach in Reynisfjara has quite eye-watering views with its cliffs and and hills in the sea, but I possibly went at the worst main time, so I only spent a few minutes here as it was way too crowded for my taste. Also, the so called sneaker waves are no joke here. One week before I went, a little girl drowned in here. The powerful waves literally sneak up on you when you think you are in a safe distance. They come and go so quickly that you should never turn your back to sea here.
Crowd Avoidance Angle: Just after Black Sand Beach a bit further to the East you will drive through a small town called Vik, which is a bit of a tourist refuelling hub with tons of shops, gas stations and restaurants. If you have time it is worth heading to the beach which is literally one minute away. You will have the black sand beach experience, which slightly less dramatic sights, but still very much worth it. Why not enjoy the peace and quiet here, while most people buzz about in the background refuelling their cars and stomachs.
8. Systravatn Viewpoint
Now, I haven’t come across Systravatn Viewpoint in any of my research and just literally walked into it by exploring, but again one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen in my life. And with only 13 ratings on Google Maps it feels like a real treasure I stumbled upon. Close to Tjaldstæðið Kirkjubær II, cottages and camping, you walk along the main road until a small path leads to Systrafoss Waterfall, but you don’t want to stop here, there is a little path which is very easy to miss and more visible on the way back to the main road (there is also a path which is closed, but ignore that and keep that behind you to find the path which does lead up the hill!) It is a bit of a tricky steep path up the hill for about 20 minutes, but very much worth it. You will reach a magic plateau and a lake which feel like right out of Lord of the Rings. You can do some hiking there on the paths between the high grass with almost no people there. At some point I thought that this was so extremely beautiful that I feared I had died and went to heaven. Additionally, if you turn your view the other way you get a beyond spectacular view over the vast planes. Truly breath-taking and gloriously insane. From the campsite if you head the other way, you will also find Stjórnarfoss, which is also definitely worth a look, especially during sunrise.
9. Diamond Beach/Glacier Lagoon
Diamond Beach and Glacier Lagoon are two massive tourist attractions within walking distance of each other and at opposite sights of the street. There are three different parking lots here just to accommodate the vast numbers of people. It is definitely worth going for the sheer spectacle of it all.
Crowd Avoidance Angle 1: I assume there will always be people watching and touching the ice chunks (diamonds) that get washed ashore at Diamond Beach, but the more you follow the beach line to the East the quieter it gets, but unfortunately also the less ice you will see. If it all gets a bit too touristy a few meters East can make all the difference to take it in quietly. The same tactic goes for the Glacier Lagoon, if you want to escape the crowds, keep following the path inland (to where the boats and kayaks leave) and very quickly the noise disappears and you have amazing views on Glacier Lagoon without screaming tourists.
Crowd Avoidance Angle 2: About 1-2km before you get to the bridge which divides Diamond Beach and the Glacier Lagoon coming from the West there is another parking spot to your left, which is worth checking out as it is home to little hiking path just before Glacier Lagoon which gives your glorious sights on the lagoon and combines it with the absolutely jaw-dropping sight of the insanely massive mountain range behind you. I have never seen anything like it and again spent a good hour there pretty much by myself taking it all in and marvelling at nature and wondering how a spot like this on Earth can be possible.
10. Landmannleugar and Glacier Hike Trip
I also did an organised group tour to the nature reserve Landmannleugar, where my van wasn’t legally allowed to go to. I can’t even begin to describe the sights I have seen inland, so I just recommend going there if you can. It is outrageously gorgeous and breath-taking. I also did a glacier hike with an organised group tour, because I didn’t have the equipment to do so and an experienced person to tell you where to step was quite helpful.
11. Reykjavik and Reykjavik Pride
I was in Reykjavik for a few days and it is small but truly lovely and welcoming city. The best proof is that the two main bars Kiki Queer Bar and 22 Bar let me help out in the Reykjavik Pride Parade to wheel steward their float. I had only been in the city 2 days but they welcomed me to help out and I therefore was able to walk within the parade just being a tourist, which was amazing.
I’m quite conscious that my little road trip only managed to scratch the surface of what Iceland has to offer, but my mind was truly blown by the things I have seen.
I never said that about any country before, but I would definitely love to come back for a second or third round of road trip adventures to see more of Iceland’s insanely beautiful nature and meet more of its friendly and welcoming people 
