I think it is the colonial connection with the Germans that has given an aspirational value to all things related to Mercedes Benz in Rwanda. A second-hand Benz E class from the 1990s can be an ultimate ride for the middle class. A beat up 1960’s Benz Actros truck is considered fit for any task. Now this story is not about Benz nor is it got any thing to do with cars or trucks. It is about a dish that some Rwandan can argue about the whole night over a plate of Akabenzi and a pint of beer (most often more plates and pints are involved).
Let me explain what Akabenzi is, simply put it is pork prepared in Rwandan style with a mixture of tomato paste garlic, ginger and some spices unique to each chef preparing it. It is very often mixed with fried/boiled banana or potatoes. Each chef has his own way of preparing it, and in Rwanda, a chef is respected according to how popular his Akabenzi is. Pork is available throughout Rwanda, even though not consumed at the same conviction of beef or mutton. Not all restaurants serve Akabenzi, Akabenzi addicts like me, revere those that do as being on a different dimension altogether. So finding the best Akabenzi has been an obsession.
Akabenzi is more than just food to me; it is the search for this elusive dish that made me realised how only the expat hangouts of Kigali are represented on google maps.
Akabenzi is served mostly in local bar hangouts; it is a beer food. Rwandese are generally not very passionate about food. If you hear a Rwandan speak about Akabenzi rest assured he is a foodie and a rare species at that.
Following my habit of searching for eateries on Google maps, I searched for Akabenzi; I got no results. This realisation made me dig deeper and confirmed my suspicion that what you see on Maps in many African cities at that point of time are only places frequented by Expat population. I repeated this in other cities with local favourites there like Mukeke grill in Bujumbura or Sambas in Gisenyi.
Since then I got started on a self-appointed mission to ensure that local eateries with local specialities have a clear English description, photos and videos where possible.
This mission has been quite addictive and has found me more than just the best Akabenzi in town. I got to eat the best Puttu and Kadala in Kerala, the best Porotta in Madurai, The very best Pazhampori in Thriponithura. Being a wildlife photographer takes me to some pretty unusual locations, and even in the most remote parts, there will be something special to eat like the best Karakolambu I found in a Remote Tamil town.
Now coming back to Kigali and Akabenzi. I cannot end this without telling you the best story I have heard about Akabenzi. It is that of an old chef who used to run a bar somewhere in the northern province. He used to make the very best Akabenzi, but the old bugger would never give his recipe to anyone. The German chef at one of the big hotels in Kigali wanted to get the recipe. The German was so obsessed in finding the recipe that he would drive there in his Benz. His Benz would be parked in front of the run-down bar, and he would buy beer after beer for the old man trying to convince him to part with his recipe. The word spread and people started coming to find this speciality that the muzungu was obsessed over. The old man’s bar had no name, so when people asked for directions, the local would say A ka Benzi meaning near the Benz. They say the name stuck and rest is history.
Where do you get the best Akabenzi in Kigali? That will only be shared over a pint of beer, ping me when you are in Kigali, and I will take you there.