Dear Local Guides Community,
Welcome back to my series, “Discovering Goa: A Local Guide’s Journey.” In this post, we are exploring a site that is both architecturally stunning and deeply moving: The Ruins of St. Augustine Church and the Augustinian Tower.
If you are planning a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Goa, this is a must visit place. It tells us the story of decay, resilience, and remarkable history.
A Glimpse into History: How and When It Was Built
The complex was constructed by the Augustinian friars, who arrived in Goa in 1572. The main church building was completed around 1602 and was dedicated to Our Lady of Grace (Nossa Senhora da Graça).
In its prime, it was considered one of the grandest structures in the Portuguese empire. The church itself was massive, with four chapels and a grand vaulted nave. The centerpiece, however, was the massive 46-meter-high (150-foot) tower, which served as a belfry and a prominent landmark for ships arriving in the Mandovi River.
The Decline:
Following the suppression of religious orders in Portuguese territories in the 19th century, the complex was abandoned. The vault of the church collapsed in 1842, followed by the facade and part of the tower in 1931. What remains today is a single, majestic section of the tower, pointing skyward amidst the jungle.
The Legend of Queen Ketevan: A Sacred Connection
This site is of immense historical significance not just to Goa, but to the nation of Georgia as well.
Who was she? Queen Ketevan was the Queen of Kakheti in eastern Georgia (the country). In the early 17th century, she was captured by Persian forces and held captive in Shiraz for many years. She refused to renounce her Christian faith and convert to Islam, and as a result, she was martyred in 1624.
How did she end up in Goa? Her remains were secretly recovered by Portuguese Augustinian friars who were present in Persia. Recognizing the significance of her sacrifice, they brought her relics to Goa. They were interred with great reverence inside the Church of St. Augustine in 1627.
The Journey Home: Over centuries, the exact resting place within the ruins was lost to time. However, a massive excavation project led by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in 2017 (based on clues from medieval Portuguese documents) successfully unearthed a bone fragment in a reliquary within the ruins. DNA testing later confirmed this fragment belonged to Queen Ketevan.
Following the confirmation, the Indian government officially handed over a portion of the relics to the Georgian government in 2021 for veneration in her homeland.
Accessibility Features:
Wheelchair Accessibility Though there is a ramp from the entrance to the base of the tower, the pathway is jagged and rough.
Audio guides are not available for visually impaired visitors
Wheelchair accessible washrooms are not available
Visitor Information
- No tickets are required to enter this place
- Open from sunrise until sunset
- There is provision for drinking water
- There are very few options to sit in shade and it can get very hot during summers, hence please be prepared accordingly
- Inside the ruins, you will find altars, churches, and even remains of residence
- Location: The ruins are located just a short walk from the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral
You can check my review of the place here.
Link to my previous posts in this series:
*Uncovering Goa's Hidden Heritage: A Visit to the Museum of Christian Art
*Uncovering Old Goa’s Hidden Gem: The Convent of Santa Monica & The Weeping Cross
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