When I told my friends and colleagues I was having a weekend city break in Beirut there wasn’t a single person who didn’t respond along the lines of “What?! Why, you’re mad!”. Having been at the centre of a brutal fifteen year civil war the city’s name remains synonymous with everything you wouldn’t want from a holiday. Certainly amongst many in the UK, the country of Lebanon is also perceived as unstable and best avoided, but I am so glad I didn’t fall foul of this perception and continued with the trip, since the city provided an incredible experience.
In early October the temperature in the UK was starting to fall and the relatively cheap direct flight prices with British Airways meant it seemed a no-brainer to me. I booked a three night stay in the Radisson Martinez hotel, a five-star property right in the centre of the city. I’ve written detailed reviews of the hotel but suffice to say it comes recommended by me and is the perfect base for exploring this interesting city.
Given I was only there for a couple of days I didn’t get a chance to venture out of the city centre but there was no need. In glorious sunshine I strolled along the corniche, past the hordes of men fishing in the sea, up to the lighthouse on the western tip. It was beautiful but I was saddened by the amount of litter, plastic in particular, floating along the cost and scattered amongst the rocks. Plastic pollution has a lot of focus currently, and Beirut demonstrates why.
In the opposite direction I came across Zaitunay Bay, a modern and swanky marina with gorgeous super yachts and beautiful restaurants. This area of downtown Beirut reminded me more of Dubai and Doha than a city destroyed not thirty years earlier. If you’re looking for designer shopping, this is the place to be!
Stood in the right spot however you can see the towering old Holiday Inn hotel casting an eerie and emotional shadow over the area. It is all too easy to picture the snipers hiding in what is now a carcass of a building and, with the army still having a noticeable presence throughout the city, you never have to look far to get a reminder of the past.
With the clock tower in Nejmeh Square, the Mohammad Al-Amin (aka Blue) Mosque and Raouche (or Pigeons) Rocks, the rest of my weekend was filled admiring interesting architecture and sights, and wondering how I hadn’t heard about all this beauty before!
Everyone I encountered was very friendly and welcoming plus, both day and night, I felt safe walking around. Delicious meat was available everywhere I turned and, despite the crazy driving and constant beeping of car horns, I managed to unwind and relax in the sun.
In my ambition to visit every country it’s rare that I desire to return to the same place, especially so soon. Beirut however has left me yearning for more; I will be back and for a longer period of time. I have many good memories and am certain I’ll build many more. I’d recommend the city to anyone, especially those up for seeing wonderful things most others miss.
