Kerala is a state on the west coast of South India. There are 14 unique districts within the state. This post is one part of a series of posts sharing the 14 districts in Kerala, India. This post details my short visit to Kozhikode district, one of the largest business cities in Kerala. Also known as Calicut for easier pronunciation especially by tourists. Kozhikode is a very important ancient spice trade post and kingdom connecting the Arab, Europeans and East Asia through sea. Kozhikode is also the heart of Malabar and here we can discover incredible Malabari biryani, Malabar halwa and lots of incredible gastronomic food and snacks. And Kozhikode is also a connection hub from the coastal path to other districts such as Wayanad and Malappuram. Google Maps location (https://goo.gl/maps/8uUfTtQX2DNaEmVe7 )
First time I had arrived to Kozhikode, it was via a local train from south. Intercity travel is usually most convenient via express or local trains by Indian railways, and the amazing thing is one can almost always get a ride, even if the train is full. Although I didn’t get a seat, it was such an experience to chat with many locals standing around me during a busy period. Everyone was incredibly friendly and welcoming. The journey was picturesque and we went through water ways, coconut plantations and endless peaceful villages.
I did finally get a seat and soon, I had arrived at the main Kozhikode main railway station (https://goo.gl/maps/SoUkQ2XHN9V36JAw8 ). It was right in the middle of town, and I took the opportunity to explore the local area. Very much walkable and for longer distances, it’s best to catch an auto rickshaw. Kozhikode is a very busy business city of trade. Traffic is heavy most of the time. And during when I was here, it was rather hot and the great thing was many carts were selling fresh coconut for people to cool off.
One of the most important location for locals and visitors alike throughout the day is Kozhikode Beach (https://goo.gl/maps/ozmZU3dMnRB74nst6 ). It’s walkable from the town center, and I would think most visitors would be staying around this vicinity. The beach is a hive of activity all day long, and it gets crowded every evening when the sun slow down. People gather here to meet friends, have food, eat snacks, enjoy the wonderful wind and sound of the waves and for most part, we just sit and do nothing. The sunset is amazing at this beach. It’s a definite must visit when in Kozhikode.
Towards the late evening, one of the best places to walk around and partake in bargain hunting and experiencing local shopping is in SM Street (Mittay Teruvu or Sweet Street https://goo.gl/maps/4deXM1D4SFQLFrcG9 ). There are many shops to check out local and imported goods and it’s just an incredible experience to be among local shoppers. Here too one can pick up snacks and chaya (tea) in almost every corner.
A trip to Kozhikode will not be complete if the local food specialties here are not mentioned. Kozhikode is famous for Kozhikode Malabar biryani, and 2 such shops have a cult like following. In Kerala and many parts of India, locals call restaurants as “hotels”, not to be confused with the staying type, these are pure restaurants. Hotel Rahmath (https://goo.gl/maps/exfd3h3KDeXo2m6G7 ) in the center of town, is possibly the most popular among locals and Paragon Restaurant (https://goo.gl/maps/GDzGL64RWsXBfgwQ9 ), which has branches around many places in the Middle East is another local favorite. I have eaten in both, and both are equally incredible in their own right. One must at least eat in one of these places when visiting Kozhikode.
Kozhikode has so much incredible food and snacks to offer, and a small post here will not be able to do justice to all the great food here. So just a short mention. One must spend time at the Kozhikode beach (https://goo.gl/maps/wpLxqqNEN7rQFGd96 ) and explore all the snack vendors especially around the junction of Beach road and Red Cross road. One important food to try there is deep fried stuffed mussels (Kallumakkay), which is addictively delicious. The first time I had it, I went back to buy a lot more and ended up only eating that for a meal. Then there’s the very famous Raman etta’s Ice Sarbath shop opposite of Paragon restaurant, one must also try this (https://goo.gl/maps/j8LhywxuBhRxXKQq7 ). And one must also go Kozhikode halwa hunting. Halwa is a sweet, sticky, incredible flavorful chewy and mouthwatering sweet available all over Kerala. Other states in India will have other varieties and styles of halwa. In Kerala halwa has a huge content of coconut oil and ghee and flavored with many local ingredients like caramon, saffron, jackfruit, jaggery, nuts, dried fruits and so much more. It’s hard to explain without one trying it. A great place to find many sweet shops will be in SM Street for sure. (https://goo.gl/maps/4deXM1D4SFQLFrcG9 )
Since I was in Kozhikode, I didn’t want to not take the opportunity to visit the famed town of Mukkam (https://goo.gl/maps/wMDRFGNxD7VDHqzE8 ). Came here to visit via a local bus, met new friends for life along the way. No, it’s not a tourist destination. But we who are in the Kerala family know it as the place of Moidheen (Moidheente sthalam). A place where a real life incredible love story in the 1960s ended in a sad tragedy, and is one of the stories that remind people of multiple faiths in the state to continuously unite and love one another. I was able to visit the river and also local villages around the area. A most emotional visit and it was amazing to make so many new friends from there.
There is so much more to write and chat around Kozhikode, but suffice to say this post is really as a special shout-out to all the amazing people there, including our Kozhikode, Malabar and Kerala Local Guides community who continue to always be there for one another.
*All photos are self captured.
Check out my other posts about other districts in Kerala (work in progress, going to cover all 14 districts)