When I planned to immigrate to Australia from Canada in 2010, I researched the cities of this great country, hoping to find a ‘home’ that would tick all my dream boxes.
I had high expectations moving from Vancouver, with its 365 active lifestyle culture (25 - 30+ degrees Celsius in the Summer and an average of 7, but gloomy, in the winter - for Canada this is prime weather), proximity to the ocean and Rocky Mountains, beaches and lush forest. Prior to my research I was familiar with Sydney, Melbourne (which battles with Vancouver for most liveable city) and Perth. Upon further investigation (basically just sliding my finger up on a map) Brisbane, Cairns and the Gold Coast surfaced. The state of Queensland was unfamiliar territory. My Australian ex-wife (no judgements please ? refused to consider the Gold Coast because apparently there is a stigma about Queenslanders in the southern parts of Australia (New South Wales, Victoria).
Apparently they’re (now ‘we’) are of the bogan (aka redneck) sort. And Gold Coast residents have been described as “muscles, tattoos and big boobs”. Or simply put “vacuous”.
In 2011, we moved near Cairns where, I have to admit, you can find those stereotypical Queenslanders in parts. I actually met a guy, who was visiting from Far North Qld, who had a Crocodile Dundee hat and a crocodile tooth necklace. Nice guy, would not want to be on his bad side though. The Cairns area is like a big small town. Everything moves slower there. Except for the young locals who seemed to party non-stop.
“Get to the point”, you’re probably thinking. I know, you didn’t read this article for the highs and depressing lows of my passed relationships. So, let’s get to it.
Well, after the heartbreaking demise of my marriage (no sympathy please) I decided to move to the Gold Coast (GC). And here’s what I found.
If you head into the suburb of Surfers Paradise (aka Surfers) you’ll find stereotypical
Gold Coasters with their bleach blond hair, augmented breasts and lips, sleeves of tattoos, with bodies built by CrossFit addiction or steroids. But, Surfers Paradise is not the real Gold Coast. First of all, no surfer in their right mind would catch a wave there, the surf is abysmal for anyone other than a beginner. The restaurant scene is subpar and, unless you’re looking for UGG boots and a GC souvenir t-shirt, the shopping isn’t great. Don’t forget, Surfers is where the Schoolies come every year. Nuff said. Well, not quite. I’ll be fair.
The SkyPoint Climb at the Q1, tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere (322.5 metres), is fun, and a photo of yourself under the famous Surfers Paradise arch is pretty cool.
If you really want the cosmopolitan/beach vibe, jump on a G:Link tram and head south to Broadbeach. With its wide array of restaurants (Koi, The Loose Moose), cafes (Elk Espresso, No Name Lane…) shopping (Pacific Fair), and a newly renovated casino for the gambling set, this area can’t be beaten on the GC. The beach is better than Surfers, although it still doesn’t get the ‘real’ surf crowd. The Kurrawa Surf Club (named after the beach it’s located on) is one of the best on the coast for grabbing a bite and catching a great view. If you have a family with small kids, look no further than the Kurrawa All Abilities playground. Which is fenced in, and has all sorts of child friendly surfaces. There’s an opportunity for kids of all shapes and sizes to run, jump, swing and tumble.
Broadbeach does however get a nightclub crowd on weekend evenings in case that is, or isn’t, your thing.
And yet, this still isn’t the ‘real’ Gold Coast locals would recommend
If you want to experience the true nature of what this beautiful city has to offer, grab a map and a pen, and cross out everything in the centre (Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise, Main Beach…). I know, who carries a physical map anymore? My middle age is surfacing. Okay, go to Google Maps and centre on Surfers/Broadbeach, now just pretty much pick any place south of there. My favourite suburb is Burleigh Heads. Its lush landscape reminds me of Hawaii. It is a primo beach community, with the feel of a small surf town but with trendy restaurants and cafes.
Grab fish and chips from Red Hot Cod, and a coffee from The Nook, and head up to Burleigh Point (aka John Laws Park) to catch the best views on the Gold Coast. Watch the surfers grab a barrel (I’m not a surfer so my lingo is probably way off), sit on the grass under a tree on the cliffs edge and watch the sunset over the bluest of the blue ocean. You’ll finally see the beauty of Surfers Paradise as a cityscape in the distance.
This area is also home to Australia’s smallest national park, Burleigh Head National Park, which you can walk through, or around, and enjoy the lush trees and coastline, stopping at Tallebudgera creek where you can take a swim or just dip your feet in the calm waters.
There are some great breakfast joints in this neighbourhood (Social Brew, Commune Cafe, Street Corner Espresso, The Paddock Bakery, Connors Cafe…- I’m really into coffee and breakfasts as you can see). Their trendy restaurant scene is on par (Justin’s Lane, Ze Pickle, Burleigh Heads Hotel, The Fish House, Rick Shores…) with the best the Gold Coast can offer. Or pull up a chair on the upper deck, or below at the Surf Club to enjoy the beach and ocean views, or just watch the beautiful people pass by.
Further south is Palm Beach, with its ‘ahead of the curve’ cafe and restaurant culture (Barefoot Barista, Balboas, The Collective, Hachi), beaches where surfers can catch a decent wave, and beachgoers can grab a little solitude.
A little further south is Currumbin. A trip to picturesque Elephant Rock and its family, and surf friendly beach area is an easy choice. Head to Vikings Surf Club and watch the ocean waves smash into the surrounding rocks. Grab your snorkel and head down to those same rocks and capture some photos of the local sea life. If it’s Australian animals you’re into, look no further than Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary where you can pet the kangaroos, feed the Lorikeets and get your photo taken with a Koala. Check the local tourism pamphlets for great deals here and the much quieter David Fleay Wildlife Park (West Burleigh) which has the elusive platypus.
If you keep travelling south you’ll reach Kirra and Coolangatta which is convenient for the airport commute and has its share of beautiful beach spots, cafes and shops to take in. Kirra has a great little Hawaiian themed restaurant, Type Aloha, which serves Mexican food. Obviously.Head a little further along the coastline to the Southern end of Coolangatta (aka Cooly) and you’ll reach Rainbow Bay which has the world famous surf destination Snapper Rocks, home to the Quiksilver and Roxy Pro surf competition which occurs every April. You’ll see your fair share of famous pro surfers, many of which are locals or at least have houses in the area (Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore, Sally Fitzgibbons, Joel Parkinson and Mick Fanning). This isn’t a novice surf location. Entry to the good surf is off some jagged, and slippery, rocks. They call them Snapper Rocks for a reason. Stop into Cafe D-Bah (you might see those famous surfers here) in Tweed Heads after, which is technically in New South Wales (NSW), and grab a bite, walk along the cliffs edge (can be windy), then head down to Point Danger/Duranbah Beach and dip your feet in the waves.
As alluded to, the great thing about the Gold Coast is its proximity to the border. Jump across to NSW and enjoy the bohemian vibe of world famous Byron Bay (home to Chris Hemsworth, and a couple other celebrities who have houses there like Matt Damon) and head up to the lighthouse, Australia’s most easterly point,or stay closer to the GC and drive into Kingscliff for its good breakfasts and creek walk, experience Salt Village, or stay overnight in neighbouring Casuarina Beach if you being laid back is your thing.
But wait, there’s more! If you travel to the other side of the M1 highway you’ll surround yourself with the rolling hills and tropical forests of the hinterland. Head to the touristy Mount Tambourine, walk around Hinze Dam, take a short hike to the plethora of cascading waterfalls (Purling Falls, Springbrook Natural Bridge) or stay a little closer and experience Mudgeeraba, a quaint community where everyone seems to know each other, and shoes seem to be optional. (Cafes: Mudgee Bah Espresso Cafe, Mudjira Village Eatery, The Millers Hands).
If you have kids, or you’re a kid at heart, then the GC is Mecca for theme parks (Wet and Wild, Movie World, Dreamworld, SeaWorld) and although I didn’t think I would like it, the horse centric Outback Spectacular show is actually quite, as the name says, spectacular. If you’re planning on going for more than a day, go online and purchase a season’s pass (Google themeparks.com.au), it will be cheaper in the long run, especially if you come back to the coast again that year. (Don’t think about selling your pass when you leave though, your photo is on it. Unless you find someone who looks a lot like you, you’re stuck with it). If you do have a family and want to stay and travel to the theme parks, I recommend Turtle Beach Resort in Mermaid Beach (near Broadbeach). It has swimming pools for kids and adults, a small waterpark of its own, as well as onsite restaurants and corner store. And it’s only three streets to the beach. There is a shuttle service (additional cost) leaving from there daily for all the theme parks. Or, you can buy a ticket for the city shuttle bus that stops out front (although cheaper, this service takes awhile to reach your destination though).
I haven’t mentioned the north end of the Gold Coast yet. It’s not that it isn’t good. It’s just not as good as the south GC. Broadwater Parklands is great for walks, kids activities (a big playground, and toddler friendly, free, water play area), Seaworld is in Main Beach, and if you keep heading along that road you’ll get to The Spit. It’s a place that locals love, and the city wants to build a casino and cruise ship terminal on. I’ll stay out of that debate. If you head north along the Gold Coast Highway (Don’t be fooled by the name, it’s now just a very busy 60kph artery from one end of the coast to the other). And stay along the coastline through Biggera Waters (home to Australia’s biggest outlet shopping, Harbour Town), you’ll eventually get to Paradise Point. There is a nice community field here, a busy park, a mix of restaurants and cafes, and it’s next to the semi private wealthy community of Sovereign Island with its big houses and fancy cars. It’s worth a drive through. A ten minute drive from this area will take you to Sanctuary Cove. A unique community of locals who dock their boats and drive around it in custom golf carts. They don’t just use them on the local golf course. You’ll find a couple good restaurants, upscale shops, a weekend market, and the Illusions Magic Show of all things, home to illusionist Matt Hollywood (check out the Gold Coast flyers for deals to this).
Now, the downsides of the Gold Coast aren’t many. One peeve I have, being a guy who loves a good coffee and a place to read, is that many cafes close between one and three in the afternoon. Broadbeach and Surfers Paradise are exceptions. That being said, another bonus about this oceanfront city is that Brisbane (Qld’s largest and Australia’s fastest growing city) is only an hour drive, or a tram and train ride, away (using the Helensvale station connection). Brisbane has an abundance of late night restaurants, shopping, and a cosmopolitan feel. What it doesn’t have is easy access to the beach, hinterland, and the streets can be really confusing (Car navigation systems get confused in the CBD).
Have I sold you? Well, in case you skipped to the end because you didn’t come here to read a novel sized review, I’ve included highlights about each Gold Coast suburb and a few extra tips below.
From North to South Gold Coast
Sanctuary Cove: boats, golf carts, golf, adequate lunch and dinner choices, high-end shops, a resident illusionist
Sovereign Island - rich people, expensive houses
Paradise Point: cafes, a great park, a calm stretch of broadwater for those who aren’t strong swimmers or beach people
Biggera Waters: Harbour Town Shopping Outlet, Charis Seafoods (it’s actually in the neighbouring community of Labrador, but they have great takeaway, and home to dozens of pelicans that come to get a daily feed of seafood scraps).
Broadwater Parklands: Good walks, kids play areas, calm water, Australia Fair Shopping Centre (needs renovating, but movies are cheap at the cinema. Park here for free and walk across to the Broadwater, don’t tell them I said you could though ?
Main Beach: Lark Cafe, Seaworld, Versace Hotel (rooms are over-rated), The Spit
Surfers Paradise: Not really a surfer’s paradise. DO NOT book a hotel here (If you must, book at The Hilton, Soul, Q1, and a cheaper alternative Mantra Legends). Surfers is great to visit for about an hour. Get a photo at the Surfers Paradise sign, do the climb at the Q1, then jump on a tram a quickly leave. The twenty somethings will enjoy the late night and nightclub scene. Just be warned, surfers after 10pm can get ‘sketchy’.
Broadbeach: Great restaurants, good beach, shopping, and a casino. Busy. Home to some major hotel brands,I personally liked the Meriton. Watch out for those Groupon Broadbeach hotel offers if you’re shopping for discount accomodation. I’ve seen a couple that seem nice, but knowing the hotels on offer, I wouldn’t chance it. Restaurants, and some cafes, open late.
Burleigh Heads: My favourite Gold Coast neighbourhood. Great beach. Surf friendly. Amazing views. On trend restaurants and cafes. Can get busy.
Palm Beach: Up and coming neighbourhood. Community vibe. Quiet beaches. Good surfing. Great restaurants and cafes, particularly the Pam Beach Avenue area.
Currumbin: Great rock features off the beach (Elephant Rock). The views at Vikings Surf Club. A few good cafes; although they close early. Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary (pat a kangaroo and hold a koala). Check online, or in local pamphlets for deals.
Kirra: Quiet beaches. Tacos at Tupe Aloha. Close proximity to airport.
Coolangatta: Good beaches. World class surfing (Snapper Rocks) and Point Danger (although technically Tweed Heads) Close proximity to airport.
The Hinterland:
Mount Tamborine: Touristy rainforest village. A beautiful drive, or head to one of the surrounding waterfalls. Saint Bernard Cafe has great views and, you guessed it, St. Bernards dogs. If you have allergies, perhaps give it a pass. Skip the nearby Skywalk through rainforest. It’s not worth the price of admission, especially since there’s majestic trails throughout the area. For ease of access, I suggest Springbrook Natural Arch waterfall. It’s not quite beside Mount Tamborine, but access from the Gold Coast mainland takes about he same time or less.
Mudgeeraba: A mixture of a friendly small town and hippy vibe, it has a few good cafes and is the gateway to a couple great waterfalls.
Across the border into New South Wales:
Kingscliff, NSW : Good cafes and strolls along the water. A caravan park right on the beach. Salt Village restaurants and premium beach access. Family friendly. The slow moving, and picturesque, Casuarina Beach. Head a community over to Cabarita, head up to the top of Norries Head to go whale spotting.
Byron Bay: Laid back locals, but busy tourist destination. The light house and surrounding views. Spot celebrities like Chris Hemsworth and frequent visitor Matt Damon.
Photos from my favourite Gold Coast suburb, Burleigh Heads:
