My time in Richmond, Virginia was just a quick layover between extended stops. The weather was cold and the downtown area was rife with construction. Needless to stay my ability and desire to engage in a typical wander was somewhat limited. However, nestled between the modern buildings and rundown brick edifices with faded advertisements from the 50’s, I did find a collection of stone buildings constructed from reclaimed 19th century material. These throwbacks of to a time before electricity are the home of the Edgar Allan Poe Museum. [business link redacted]
Although Poe traveled throughout his life, he always considered himself a Virginian, and in the 1916 a dedicated group of local researchers and literary enthusiasts designed a memorial garden and shrine to the author. They found a home for their tribute behind the Old Stone House, then a colonial museum. In the century since, the Old Stone House and the surrounding buildings have grown into the largest collection of historic Poe artifacts in the world. Although small, in respects to museums, it is fascinating in terms of American history.
The museum is divided up into 4 parts: three buildings and the garden courtyard. The first building you visit is the Old Stone House. This small and historic building is dedicate to the early life of Poe. Features include his childhood bed and and an old playbill with his mother’s name on it from her days as an actress. Local facts-although Poe was raised in Virginia and died in Baltimore, he was born in Boston, MA in 1809. Historic connections-he shares that birth year with both Abraham Lincoln and Charles Darwin.
The second building, The Memorial Building, is dedicated to Poe the writer. By far the most fascinating of the three buildings, it includes many of his personal letters, rough drafts, and 1st editions of some of his publications. Although Poe is most widely known for his pyschological thrillers and horror stories, “Hans Pfaal” (1835), is considered one of the first modern science fiction stories. “Murders In the Rue Morgue” (1841) is one of the first modern detective stories. (Sidenote: The NFL team in Baltimore is thus named because of Poe’s famous poem “The Raven”.) As I wandered this section of the museum, learning about the origins of some of his works, I found myself really wanting to reread some Poe and immerse myself in the experience. Apparently, this is a common feeling because I unexpectedly found an old wooden staircase to the second floor that lead to a cramped and creaky reading room. The space was furnished with old leather chairs and a bookcase replete with the collected works (novel, short stories, and poems) of Edgar Allan Poe. On the walls were paintings of the author himself to watch over you while you read. If ever there was a place for paintings to follow you with its eyes, this would be it. I tried not to make eye contact as I read some of his poetry.
The third and smallest building in the museum, The North Building, is dedicated to the mysterious death of the author. Poe died in Baltimore, in 1849. Maybe its because of how influential or groundbreaking his work was, but in my head I always place him later in the timeline of American history. For referential purposes, his death occurred 12 years BEFORE the start of the Civil War. That fact always boggles my mind.
Poe left Richmond in September of 1849 headed for Philadelphia. He disappeared and wasn’t seen again until 6 days later when he was found in Baltimore delirious and wearing clothes that were not his own. Three days later in a state of semiconscious, Poe uttered the words, “Lord, help my poor soul” and died. Before an autopsy could be conducted, Poe was laid to rest by his family. Ironically, the father of the modern detective story left behind a mystery that has remained unsolved for the last 170 years.
The North building also has a exhibit dedicated to the “Poe Toaster”. Starting in 1949 (The centennial of his death) every year on Poe’s birthday, a masked visitor dressed in black would arrive at Poe’s grave in the dead of night. He would quietly leave behind three red roses and a bottle of congnac. The tradition continued for 60 years until the original and unidentified “Poe Toaster” passed away. A more detailed story of the tradition can be found here .
The final section of the Poe museum was the courtyard central to all the buildings. It’s design was based off his poem, “To One In Paradise”. Ivy that grows on the walls of the courtyard was originally culled from the grave site of his mother, Eliza Poe. Apparently, the garden also plays host to two residential black cats named Edgar and Pluto. But I was only visited by one while sitting on the benches. Touring the museum was definitely the highlight of my very short visit to Richmond. I only wish I could have come in the spring when the Enchanted Garden was more in bloom. Who knows, maybe it’s more fitting to the atmosphere of Poe’s famous works, to explore the gardens while the sky is gray and the plants are wilted and dead. Either way, literary folk and Poe enthusiasts especially should not miss this place.